When looking through seed catalogs or plant care manuals, you are likely to stumble upon at least a few descriptions that you didn't know existed. So here's a cheat sheet to help you manage your rates and maybe even impress your gardening friends.
Aeration: Poke holes in compacted soil with a garden fork or aerator to allow oxygen to reach plant roots.
Amendment: Adding organic matter such as compost or manure to the soil to improve soil fertility, drainage, water retention, or structure.
Annuals: Plants that complete their life cycle in one year regardless of climate.
Bare Roots: Plants, usually roses, trees and shrubs, are sold without soil or pots taken out of the ground.
Semi-annual: plants whose life cycle is completed in two years.
People also read...
Seedlings: Early flowering crops such as lettuce and beets that make them bitter or reduce their quality.
Botanical name: The name given to plants using Latin terms developed by the eighteenth-century Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus. Using the plant's botanical name (also known as the "scientific name") eliminates the risk of confusion with other plants.
Spreading : sowing seeds by hand or machine over a large area instead of sowing in rows.
Hat: A traditional bell-shaped item worn on a plant to protect it from insects or frost.
Cold frame: fence around plants to create a greenhouse effect and extend the growing season.
Common Names: Nicknames used in certain geographic areas or regions to describe plants. Because different plants can have the same name, and a single plant can have multiple names, using them can be confusing for the gardener.
Companion plantings: combinations of plants selected based on the benefits they bring to each other. These benefits include attracting pollinators, repelling pests, or using live baits.
Pruning: The process of removing wilted or dead flowers from a plant to encourage re-blooming, prevent self-seeding, or simply keep the plant clean.
Deciduous: Plants, trees, or shrubs that lose their leaves in autumn or winter.
Direct Seeding: Sow seeds right in the garden instead of planting them in indoor containers and then transplanting outdoors.
Ephemeral: A plant that emerges and dies relatively early, often in the spring.
Evergreen: A plant, tree, or shrub that does not shed its leaves in either fall or winter, but remains green throughout the year.
Foliar Fertilization: Apply liquid fertilizer directly to the leaves, not to the ground.
Germination: The initial growth of a shoot from a seed.
Hardening: The process of gradually adapting plants to different, usually harsher, climatic conditions, such as outdoor and indoor climates, to increase their viability.
Heirloom: A plant in its original form that has not been crossed or crossed with any other species or cultivars. Heirloom seeds produce plants that are "true bred" or have the same characteristics as the plant they came from.
Hilling: The practice of spreading soil over new shoots above the ground, as in potato plants.
Hybrid: flower color, disease resistance, aroma, size, hardness, taste, shelf life, etc. .
Naturalization: The practice of dispersing seeds or tubers in a natural or visible manner, such as in lawns where unrestricted dispersal is permitted.
Organic Matter: Non-synthetic materials such as decaying plants and animals, manure, compost, and leaf litter used to improve soil fertility, structure, and other properties.
Perennials: plants with a life cycle of more than two years. Perennials can fall to the ground in winter and return year after year, or they can stay green all their lives.
pH: In horticulture, the pH scale measures the acidity or alkalinity of soil, compost, and water. The lower the reading, the more acidic the soil; The higher the value, the higher the alkalinity. A value of 7.0 is considered neutral.
Pinching: The practice of using the thumb and forefinger to remove young shoots and stems, usually to encourage the growth of side shoots.
Scarification : Scratching, slicing, slicing or damaging the hard surface of a seed to facilitate germination.
Self-sowing : A term used to describe plants that reproduce by dropping seeds into the surrounding soil. These seeds germinate, take root and grow into new plants. This is also called "self-seeding".
Side dressing: spreading granular, powdered or granular fertilizers (or other additives) next to various plants instead of applying them to the soil or planting holes.
Stratification: The process of exposing seeds or tubers to low temperatures, usually in a refrigerator or freezer, to simulate the open winter conditions necessary for successful spring germination.
Top dressing: Applying fertilizers or additives such as compost or manure directly to the soil on and around plants.
Wet Feet: Wet roots are usually caused by poor drainage or over-saturation of the soil.
Xeriscaping: The use of drought tolerant plants in landscaping to conserve water. This is also called "garden water management".
5 common garden diseases and how to treat them
Garden danger
This photograph provided by the University of Maryland shows the spread of anthracnose symptoms on a pea bush.
As you plant seeds in the spring and watch them germinate, then water and fertilize them, even repot them as they grow, images of summer salads, stir-fried vegetables, and homemade pickles dance through your mind.
And then one day black dots and yellow spots appear on the leaves and soft bottom, and your dream turns into a nightmare.
Many home gardeners lovingly care for their plants, only to find that they are destroyed by an unknown force before harvest.
But fear not: here are some tips for identifying and treating the five most common diseases that threaten your plants.
anthracnose;
This photo of a pumpkin shows symptoms of anthracnose, a serious fungal disease affecting crops such as beans, cucumbers, eggplants, melons, peas, peppers, tomatoes, squash, and spinach.
A fungal disease affecting beans, cucumbers, eggplants, melons, peas, peppers, tomatoes, zucchini and spinach. Anthracnose appears on the leaves in the form of small spots with yellow halos, which gradually turn black and spread throughout the leaf. The leaves of cucumber plants may fall off and the vines may die. Tomatoes and peppers develop dark sunken spots that become more visible as the fruit ripens. Peas are covered with dark spots. The melon develops round, sunken, yellow spots that turn brown and then black.
To avoid this, try a crop rotation by adding compost to the soil before planting and then applying the mulch. Look for hardy plant species when available. Avoid overwatering, which dulls the leaves and encourages mold growth. Keep infected plant parts and fallen fruit out of the soil.
Treat affected plants with a fungicide containing chlorothalonil or copper, carefully following package directions and precautions.
end flower mold
It is caused by calcium deficiency, which mainly affects tomatoes, eggplant and peppers. This disease, characterized by dark, slimy patches on the underside of fruits, is usually caused by irregular watering, incorrect soil pH, damaged roots, or excess nitrogen.
Preventive measures include checking the pH of the soil before planting. If the number is less than 6.3, add dolomite lime to the paint according to label directions.
It is necessary not to damage the roots by placing stakes and cages around the tomatoes during planting, but not during their growth and rooting. Do not plant a vegetable garden in or near a fertilized lawn, as this can increase nitrogen levels in the surrounding soil.
Treat affected plants by spraying the leaves with calcium spray until the remedy starts to fall off. The fruits obtained after treatment are usually asymptomatic, although repeated applications are sometimes required.
Grapes in a pumpkin
This photograph shows moth larvae and their characteristic droppings inside the hollow stem of a gourd.
Pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers and melons die quickly after flowering without even saying goodbye. But if you look closely, you will see small holes on the underside of stems and stems created by these pests that start life as moths laying their eggs at the base of the plant. The inch-long white caterpillars follow them, biting the stems and killing the plants as they cut. And as you understand, the damage has been done to them, they are hiding in the ground until next year, armed and ready to repeat the massacre.
Avoid damage by keeping a close eye on sensitive plants. Look for red, flat and oblong eggs early in the season and take your pick. He continued to fish every week.
If you find signs of damage such as holes, sawdust, or sawdust, use a razor blade to cut away the infected stem near the hole and remove the moth by hand. Fill in gaps with loose soil to encourage new root growth.
Treat plants with Bacillus thuringiensis or Bt bacterial insecticide if necessary (there are several options; look for one labeled for moth control).
Pallor disease
Verticillium wilt and Fusarium wilt are soil-borne fungal diseases caused by different pathogens that cause similar symptoms.
Mainly affecting eggplants, peppers, potatoes, zucchini and tomatoes, this disease causes root rot, resulting in leaf damage, yellowing, wilting, browning of the woody tissue inside the stem and general growth retardation. Eventually, the entire plant dries up and dies.
The only defense against a good attack is this: avoid infection by planting resistant varieties (check plant labels for V, F, VF or VFN, as well as resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and hookworm). Rotate crops and clear infected beds of susceptible plant species for three or four years, starving the host to rid the soil of pathogens. Regularly remove fallen leaves, fruits and plant debris.
snail
In this archive photo from 2007, a snail nibbles on a mother leaf in a garden.
Serrated holes, usually located in the middle of the leaf rather than along the edges, indicate slug damage. Nocturnal mosquitoes feed on houseplants such as basil, cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, and hosta, leaving a characteristic sticky trail.
Fight the slippery bad guys with spring cleaning that clears the soil surface of leaves, plant debris, and snail eggs, and leave no more than 3 inches of mulch to avoid creating cover.
Dip a pitcher or small jar into the soil around the affected plant, leaving about an inch above the ground, then fill it halfway with beer. The snails will crawl to drink and drown. Alternatively, if you are not allergic, you can go to the garden at mealtime (in the evening) and sprinkle salt on each of your little guests. As their bodies try to dilute the irritant, the slugs become dehydrated and die. But resist the urge to sprinkle the plants with salt. This can damage the soil.
Post a Comment
Post a Comment