Garden Q&A: English Ivy Isnt The Only Plant Species Growing On Trees In Maryland

Q: I understand English ivy is very common in Maryland, but there are some green vines clinging to the stems that look a little different than the leaves of regular ivy. Is it real or should it be deleted too?

Answer: The green creeper you saw covering tree trunks in a garden that could be confused with English ivy is winter creeper (sometimes spelled winter creeper; Euonymus fortunei ). This non-native invader behaves like English ivy in that it is a ground cover when there is no climbing aid and will cling to vines when branches or walls are available.

These species also negatively affect our trees and ecosystems and must be removed if they are growing on your property. The garden fights invasions as much as possible, but with limited resources we can do our part by not planting the species most likely to infest the garden, even if we don't live nearby. There are volunteer programs in Weed Warrior, as there are in Montgomery County, if you want to be trained to recognize invasive plants and help remove them from public lands. Since winter creeper has been banned as a Level 1 invasive plant by the Maryland Department of Agriculture since 2018, plants already in the area may be mature enough to produce berries that are inadvertently spread into landscapes by wildlife. A popular landscape ground cover for its bright green foliage (and variegated color variation). I always recommend removing it and replacing it with a preferred alternative blend of local varieties.

As with English ivy, it is safest for the plant to keep the stems of the vine separate from the roots in the ground during the winter and to break off the stems when they are dry. Although they are attached to root-like structures, they are not functional roots and no moisture or nutrients are taken from them. Pull off the ground-covering stems, mulch (light reject), or spray. As with other stubborn weeds, this species can take time to eradicate the persistent parts and there may be repeated attempts to remove it before it is finally successful. Be careful because the birds can always bring them back next year. (Aggressive plants - the gift that passes).

Q: I'm interested in trying some rootless fruiting bushes this year. Should I grow them in containers first or keep them indoors? It will probably come with instructions, but I want to do what works best for our local growing conditions.

Answer: It is actually best to plant them directly in the ground as soon as the weather permits (i.e. when the ground is not frozen or too wet). Gardeners can be chilly, but the plants will thrive as long as they are hardy strains, often grown in climates similar or even cooler to our mid-Atlantic climate. It's time to ship fruit and roses without roots, and the dormant season is the perfect time to get them back with the least stress on the plants. Because of the mild soil temperatures, roots are beginning to form and the plant will likely start growing before spring.

However, bare-rooted plants are highly perishable because there is little to no moisture-retaining material around the roots. Once you know they shipped, it's a good idea to drill holes where you plan to plant them so they'll be ready to install when they arrive. If necessary, you can keep some in a bucket of water for a few days (just soak the roots), or if you want to postpone planting, you can soak in the soil until spring approaches. . In this case, it is best to re-root them when transplanting (which is common for potting soil to wash away when uncovered) so that they are sitting in untreated or minimally changed soil after planting, which will help troubleshoot and avoid. between different soil types with differences in drainage. You can always layer the compost later and let it sink slowly into the root zone.

The University of Maryland's Lawn and Home Information Center provides free garden and pest information at extension.umd.edu/hgic . Click on "Ask Extension" to submit questions and photos.