The reason many ethnic restaurants in America have similar menus is because they've become nothing more than comfort food, especially in Mexican restaurants where you're just as likely to find burritos, quesadillas, and nachos at Taco Bell as and you are elite. a restaurant decorated with serapes, sombreros and Día de los Muertos dolls. In fact, Tex-Mex food is served much more often in America than regional Mexican cuisine. Southwest cities like Phoenix, Santa Fe, and Tucson have more variety, but 21st-century Mexican food is still a rarity.
So thank goodness for Tulix NYC, a new bar that opened last year on the edge of Soho and describes its cuisine as "coastal Mexican," serving far more seafood than fish tacos. It's the brainchild of chef Justin Bazdarik (Oxomoco in Greenpoint and Speedy Romeo in Clinton Hill, Brooklyn) and restaurateur John McDonald of Mercer Street Hospitality (Lure Fishbar, Bowery Meat Company and Hancock St.). Their attempt to attract customers begins with the impressive design of the 65-seat dining room, with a colorful bar that radiates from the liquor shelves, which contain an impressive array of tequila, mezcal and sotolo.
As you understand, there are different views on chamomile. (Incorporating "bar" into the restaurant's name was not a rash decision.) Smooth tiled walls, pink floors, orange hanging lamps that glow pleasantly, dark green alcoves, colorful banquette chairs and tall windows with bottles, mined amber. Wine There is no such thing as a beautiful cliché. (There's a main cabin that lets out the nasty winter chill.) The night I visited, the place was more than half full, but not too loud, aside from the stupid music. Unlike the dark and noisy Cosme, Bar Tulix allows for a good night without shouting. Friendly General Manager Thomas McCumber goes out of his way to make guests feel welcome.
Justin Bazdarich and chef Asia Shabazz's menu displays a regionalism rare elsewhere, presenting everything with color and flourish without being ostentatious. A fresh salsa tostada trio of habanero, guajillo and salsa cruda ($12) will push you down the spicy road. Tuna tostaditas are dressed with mayo mixed with chitesla , Aajacan pasilla with smoked chilies, seeds and dried shrimp, cooked as a mix, with avocado, radish and hibiscus ($22). A mix of raw fish ceviche is beautifully dressed with avocado, cucumber, grilled pineapple and radish ($25). Baja-style guacamole with salsa verde, serrano peppers, and epazote oil ($17) doesn't do anything without the addition of mild microgreens. Traditional guac may not be the best.
Octopus is grilled to a lovely crisp, sprinkled with paprika and served with red lentils, roasted red peppers and creamy hazelnut romesco ($26). Vegetable lovers will delight in the tender roasted agave squash with pumpkin seed gremolata ($25), while Tulix's sea bass offers fragrant sea bass paired with a dish infused with a bouquet of mild herbs. Tacos with chipotle peppers, pickles and vegetables ($31).
Spicy boneless chicken shepherd's pie with sweet and sour pineapple jam, guajillo salsa , cilantro and corn fritters is $29. Here's a juicy roasted pork coquinita pibil with pickled red onion, cilantro and habanero salsa for $34. One of the tastiest dishes here is black bean, shishito pepper and walnut salsa. pecan style, with flour fritters ($42).
The last queso ($25) was expensive and a bit bland, despite the inclusion of chorizo peppers. A portion of fresh red rice ($9) was lovely, topped with guajillo and scallions.
We had little room for two desserts. The chocolate cake ($15) was a big hit, the scones, while moist, lacked the caramel richness I was expecting ($12).
Bar Tulix is also adding "NYC" to its name, suggesting others may open in New York or elsewhere; they have fish bars in Chicago and Miami; old-fashioned guac, but who will be drawn in and amazed by the uniqueness of the food here.
BAR TULIX in New York
25 West Houston Street
212-334-7320
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