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Garden Mastery: Stepbystep Guide Takes You From Buds To Spuds

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Garden Mastery: Stepbystep Guide Takes You From Buds To Spuds

With the arrival of spring, gardeners begin planning their spring and summer gardens. When browsing seed catalogs, many people choose tomato, pepper, melon and eggplant seeds.

And the potatoes? Potatoes are easy to grow, come in many colors and shapes, and taste better than store-bought.

Potato ( Solanum tuberosum, grass family) and potato ( Dioscoreaceae family) are tubers. Tubers are plants that store food in underground stems. They have many "eyes" or eyes that grow out of the air. The potato ( Ipomoea batatas ) is a tuber. Bulb roots store their supplies in roots that are narrow at both ends. They are raised in separate groups for harvesting and reproduction.

The terms "yams" and "sweet potatoes" are often used interchangeably, but they are very different. The potatoes are orange, twisted at each end and about the size of a potato. True beavers have thick, scaly skin and hard, dry flesh that is yellow, white, purple or pink, never orange. They can grow up to 100 pounds and are not grown in San Diego. Although supermarket vegetables call it a "sweet potato", it's actually a sweet potato. Sometimes authentic foods can be found in ethnic foods. Yams should be cooked thoroughly to remove all toxins.

Potatoes are grown from "seed potatoes" - not seeds, but sliced ​​potatoes, with two or three sprouts or "eyes" in each slice. It is possible to start from true seed (harvesting from potato flowers), but the growing process is longer and the quality of the tubers varies. Choose seed potatoes that are pest and disease free and have not been treated with sprout inhibitors. Potatoes in the grocery store are chemically treated to inhibit sprout growth, resulting in poor crop yields. Cut the potatoes into roughly 1-inch pieces, with at least one sprout in each piece. Leave the cut surfaces at room temperature for three days to harden so they don't break.

Potatoes, a root crop, grow well in loose, well-drained soil and can be grown in soil or in pots. For soil, choose a weed-free spot with four to six hours of sunlight per day. Supplement the soil with organic matter and nitrogen fertilizers. A University of California study shows that potatoes need 150 to 300 pounds of nitrogen per acre (0.0525 to 0.105 ounces per square foot) in mineral soils. Keep in mind that the amount you need will depend on the end use, soil type, nitrogen level in the water and watering frequency. So do a soil test before making any changes.

Potatoes can be planted in San Diego between March and May and July and August. Plant seed potatoes 3 inches deep, 6 to 12 inches apart. This gives the plant room to grow larger potatoes. Water once a week, making sure the soil is not too wet, and fertilize four weeks after germination. Water the vines when they turn yellow. Leave the potatoes in the ground for another two weeks to harden. Potatoes exposed to sunlight turn green. The green parts are poisonous and bitter and should not be eaten. Peel the potatoes and store in a cool, dark place.

To grow potatoes in a container, choose a 15-gallon container or larger with drainage holes. Choose a nutrient fertilizer with a ratio of 10-10-5 or 12-12-12, always follow label directions to avoid overfeeding your young plants. Fill the bottom with 3-4 centimeters of soil mixed with vegetable compost, place the potato seeds on top and cover with soil. Drain and water.

When the new shoots are about 3 inches tall, plant more potato seeds and cover them with potting mix, being careful not to break the stems. Repeat until the container is full or there are no seed potatoes left. This is known as "hilling" and is a method of increasing potato yield in a small area. This also works with mashed potatoes.

Beware of potato leaf aphids and thrips ( Alternaria ). Aphids can be removed with a strong water jet or insecticidal soap. Early blight is a fungal disease with circular black spots on the leaves, the spores of which are spread by wind and moisture. It is affected by hot weather and humid weather. Treat early blight with a copper fungicide every 7-10 days until controlled.

Let's start with the sweet potato pancakes. Cuttings are last year's sweet potatoes that have been rooted for this year's plants. Invoices can be purchased from catalogs or you can create your own. Dangle the end of the potato in a glass filled with water. The water should come halfway up the sweet potato. After sprouting, separate them from the sweet potatoes and place them in a clean container filled with about 1½ inches of water to continue rooting. Change the water daily. When the cutting is 8 to 12 inches long, it is ready for planting. This process takes about 20-30 days depending on the temperature. For potatoes, use organic or untreated sweet potatoes that have not been sprayed with root inhibitors. Plant the roots 12 to 18 inches apart in well-drained soil when the soil is warm, about 70 degrees and nighttime temperatures are above 50 degrees. They will be ready for harvest in three to five months.

Two weeks before harvest, stop watering and carefully pierce the potatoes with a fork. Let it dry for a few hours before going inside. Potato nematodes, aphids, flea beetles, leafworms and wireworms can infect. For more information on environmentally friendly ways to control these pests, visit the UC IPM website at ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/patato.

Bey has been a Master Gardener since 2012. She chairs the Tool Care Committee and leads the start of horticultural workshops that teach new gardeners how to grow healthy, thriving vegetables.

For home gardening questions, contact the San Diego County UCCE Master Gardeners Hotline at (858) 822-6910 or email help@mastergardenersd.org .

This story originally appeared in the San Diego Union-Tribune.

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